Virginia’s craft spirits scene has no shortage of interesting stories, but not every distillery is trying to make another bourbon or rye. Tucked into the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains in Ridgeway, Smith River Spirits is taking a different approach, one that starts with fruit, draws on decades of winemaking experience, and puts flavor ahead of convention.

I recently had the opportunity to visit with owner and master distiller Kevin Nelson, learn more about his approach to making brandy, and work through several of Smith River’s offerings. What I found was a small operation with a remarkably thoughtful philosophy, a commitment to doing things the right way, and a lineup that deserves attention well beyond the usual brandy crowd.

Today, Kevin serves as the master distiller and handles much of the production, bringing his winemaking background and a considerable amount of practical experience to the operation. The distillery is located just steps from the Smith River itself, in a part of Southern Virginia where agriculture, small businesses, and a strong sense of place remain central to the community.

There is something refreshing about a distillery that doesn’t feel compelled to follow the industry’s latest trends. Smith River isn’t trying to make another whiskey with a different label. Instead, it has built its identity around producing distinctive fruit-based spirits and allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves.

There is something refreshing about a distillery that doesn’t feel compelled to follow the industry’s latest trends.

Flavor First, Everything Else Second

One of the things that stuck with me most from our conversation was Kevin’s philosophy toward production.

“Our whole thing is retaining flavor.”

That sounds simple enough, but it’s a guiding principle that informs nearly every decision he makes. Smith River focuses on naturally derived sugars from its fruit rather than introducing outside sugars to create a particular flavor or sweetness. Kevin is also intentional about fermentation and distillation, working to preserve as much of the original character of the ingredients as possible.

Everything is distilled below 160 proof, and the fermentation process is given considerable attention. Smith River uses champagne yeast, allowing fermentation to run longer than is typical in many operations. The goal isn’t simply to produce alcohol efficiently. It’s to carry more of the fruit’s character through the process.

That philosophy extends to the equipment, too. Kevin built a custom four-panel still for the operation, designed around the needs of the spirits he’s producing rather than adapting his approach to fit whatever equipment happened to be available.

He also spoke about the importance of doing things well, regardless of whether the additional effort is immediately apparent to the customer.

“If you’re not doing good with your work, why are you doing it?”

It’s a straightforward sentiment, but it seemed to capture the way Kevin approaches his work. There is a real appreciation for the process, and an unwillingness to take shortcuts simply because they might be easier.

Getting to Know the Brandy

Of course, a visit to Smith River wouldn’t be complete without spending some time with the spirits themselves. I had the opportunity to taste several of the brandies, including the two unaged apple expressions and two aged offerings (in addition to some old and new sneak peeks that got me extra excited about Smith River’s future).

All four of the available bottles are bottled at 85 proof, but they offer noticeably different experiences.

Apple Black Red — 85 Proof

The red apple expression was a beautiful introduction to what Smith River is doing with Virginia fruit. Made with three varieties of apples sourced from Winchester, this is a more red-apple-forward expression.

The nose and palate offered a lovely, recognizable red apple character, with a little peppermint, spice, and a subtle effervescence that kept things lively. It was expressive without becoming overly sweet, and the fruit came across as natural rather than manufactured.

There’s a freshness here that makes it an interesting departure from what many people might expect when they hear apple brandy.

Apple Black Green — 85 Proof

The green apple expression, made with apples from Wayne’s Orchard, takes a different direction.

Where the red expression leans into a brighter, more recognizable red-apple character, this one moves toward woody, green, and yellow apple notes. There’s a slightly earthy quality, a little spice, and that same subtle effervescence.

I found the finish carried a touch more ethanol than the red expression, but it remained an interesting and distinctive take on apple brandy. It’s a good example of how much the selection of fruit can influence the final spirit.

Barrel-Aged Apple Brandy — 85 Proof

Aged for at least two years, this expression takes the apple character in a deeper direction.

The time in oak brings additional richness and a smokier character, moving away from the brighter freshness of the unaged offerings. There’s a more developed sweetness here, with oak playing a much larger role in the overall profile.

It’s an interesting contrast to the unaged expressions, and a reminder that apple brandy has plenty of room to evolve with time in a barrel.

Traditional (Grape) Brandy — 85 Proof

This was my favorite of the tasting.

Rather than using apples, Smith River’s Traditional Brandy begins with Syrah (Shiraz) wine, which is distilled and aged for at least two years in heavily charred American white oak barrels.

The result is considerably deeper and darker than the apple expressions. There’s a rich sweetness, an enormous fig note, and layers of raisin-like fruit that reminded me of port, albeit in a distinctly different format.

For an 85-proof spirit, the flavor is remarkably concentrated. It was probably the most expressive of everything I tasted that day, with a depth that made it particularly memorable.

Kevin also shared an earlier experimental wine brandy at 100 proof. That additional strength brought even more of the character I enjoyed in the Traditional Brandy, while some white wine in the blend added another layer of complexity. I found myself particularly drawn to that higher-proof expression.

It’s worth noting that the Traditional Brandy is a different animal from the apple brandies. If you’re someone who enjoys rich, dark, fruit-forward spirits, this is one I’d make a point of seeking out.

The Man Behind the Still

One of the most enjoyable parts of the visit had little to do with the actual production of brandy.

Kevin is a man of many talents, and apparently, a lifetime’s worth of stories to go along with them. In addition to actively owning four other bustling businesses, his experiences have taken him through an assortment of industries and projects. We heard about construction work, helping build adaptive equipment for wounded warriors, building yachts and driving them down the Eastern Seaboard, and restoring the historic Stanley estate for his mother to live in.

It’s an unusually varied collection of experiences, and Kevin seems to bring something from each of them into the way he operates Smith River.

He came across as a genuinely good man, someone who cares about doing things properly, treating people well, and creating something that contributes more than it takes. There’s a strong preference for natural ingredients, thoughtful production, and partnerships that benefit the people and businesses around him.

That attitude made the tasting even more enjoyable. I appreciated the spirits on their own merits, but I also appreciated understanding the person and the philosophy behind them.

It’s easy to get caught up in the numbers, the labels, the latest releases, and the constant noise of the whiskey industry. Visits like this are a good reminder that there are plenty of interesting people making spirits for reasons that have very little to do with chasing the next big thing.

This piece was written in conjunction with my current Southwestern Trail Virginia Spirits project.

Check out the Bourbon Bishop Virginia Craft Whiskey Starter Trail Here, only on the Virginia Spirits Trail App

If you enjoyed this piece, check out my past distillery visit articles here.

_{This visit was hosted by the distillery. All thoughts are my own and not influenced by the experience.}